Artificial grass looks good on the surface, but what matters most is what lies underneath. This guide walks you through infill, drainage, base preparation, and the finishing details that separate a properly installed turf system from one that will fail within a year. Whether you are converting a burned-out bermuda lawn, building a dog run that stays odor-free, preparing a pool surround, or installing turf on a patio or balcony in Chandler, understanding these foundations will help you ask the right questions and verify the work before you pay.
Chandler's flat terrain, hard desert caliche, and monsoon storms create specific challenges. Turf installed on bare dirt or an uncompacted base will settle, puddle, lift at the seams, and trap odor. A proper installation starts with excavation, base rock compacted in lifts, and a drainage system matched to the site. This guide explains why, covers the materials and methods, and tells you what to demand in writing from any turf installer, including us.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material spread on top of artificial grass after installation. It serves four purposes: it props up the turf fibres so they stand upright and feel natural underfoot, it protects the backing from UV damage, it adds weight so the turf does not shift in wind or under foot traffic, and it plays a role in drainage. Different infill types suit different applications, and the choice affects how the turf performs over time.
Silica sand is the baseline infill. It is inexpensive, widely available, and works well for most residential yards. Silica is angular and sharp, which means it grips the fibres effectively, but it does not offer any special properties. Coated sand improves on silica by rounding the grains and often adding a colored coating. Rounded grains are gentler on the turf fibres and reduce wear, and they feel more comfortable underfoot. Coated sand is popular for high-traffic areas, play spaces, and pet yards where the turf will be used hard. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs moisture and odors, making it a common choice for pet turf and dog runs. It does not eliminate odor on its own, but it reduces how quickly odors build up in the turf. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under brand names such as Envirofill, are engineered to inhibit bacterial growth and lower the surface temperature of the turf in Chandler's intense sun. These products cost more but are worth considering for pet areas, play spaces, and yards where heat is a concern. Crumb rubber, made from recycled tires, is standard for sports fields and synthetic athletic courts but is rarely used in residential yards and is not recommended for pet areas or play spaces where children spend time close to the surface.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is specified in pounds per square foot, and this number matters. Too little infill is one of the most common shortcuts taken by low-cost installers. When infill is sparse, the turf fibres do not stand up properly, the backing is exposed to UV and degrades faster, and the turf feels thin and unstable underfoot. Proper infill also helps the turf drain correctly and keeps odors from concentrating in pet areas. Most residential turf systems use between 1.5 and 3 pounds of infill per square foot, depending on the turf product, its pile height, and the intended use. A dog run or play area might be on the higher end of that range, while a light-traffic patio might be on the lower end. The exact figure depends on the turf manufacturer's recommendations and the specific product chosen.
Any turf installer should provide you with the infill amount in writing before work begins. If an installer cannot or will not name a figure, that is a red flag. Ask for the pounds per square foot, the infill type (silica, coated sand, zeolite, or other), and confirmation that the amount meets the turf manufacturer's specs. This protects you from a system that will wear prematurely or develop drainage and odor problems.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The layers under artificial grass are as important as the turf itself. Start by removing the existing lawn, sod, or old turf completely, including roots. This prevents weeds from growing up through the new system and ensures a clean, level surface to build on. Once the old lawn is cleared, excavate the yard to the depth required for your base (typically three to four inches in Chandler), and grade it so water runs away from the house, pool, and any low spots. A slight fall, even one-quarter inch per foot, makes a difference in how quickly water moves off the surface.
Next, lay a weed barrier (landscape fabric) if the site is prone to weeds or if you are installing over an old concrete pad. The barrier stops weeds from pushing through while still allowing water to drain. On top of the barrier, install a free-draining base layer of decomposed granite, crushed limestone, or base rock, and compact it firmly in two-inch lifts using a plate compactor. This base layer is the foundation of your drainage system. For pet areas, play spaces, or patios where comfort matters, add an optional draining underlay or foam pad on top of the compacted base before laying turf. These underlays provide cushioning and improve drainage on hard surfaces. On concrete patios or balconies, never glue turf flat to the slab; instead, lay a draining underlay or pad, ensure edge drainage so water does not pool at the perimeter, and secure the turf at the edges so it does not shift. This approach keeps water from being trapped under the turf, which causes odor and backing deterioration.
Base Prep on Chandler Caliche: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Chandler sits on hard desert soil and caliche, a compacted layer of calcium carbonate that drains poorly and can be difficult to excavate. This geology is why base preparation is not optional. An uncompacted or inadequate base is the root cause of most turf failures in the area: the turf settles unevenly, creating dips and soft spots; water pools in low areas instead of draining away; and odors concentrate in wet sections of pet turf. Proper base prep prevents all of this.
Excavation depth depends on the site and the turf system, but three to four inches of compacted base material is typical for residential yards in Chandler. Grade the base so it slopes gently away from the house and pool, so water runs downhill and does not collect. Break through caliche if it is present and compact the base rock in two-inch lifts using a plate compactor, ensuring each lift is firm before adding the next. Loose or partially compacted base material will settle under foot traffic and cause the turf to develop ruts and puddles. If your yard has a genuine water problem (standing water after rain, poor drainage despite grading, or a high water table), the drainage issue must be addressed before turf installation. This might involve regrading the yard, installing a drainage system, or in some cases, deciding that turf is not the right choice. We will always tell you if drainage needs to come first, and we will not install turf on a site where water will not drain.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass itself drains through its backing, and backing types vary. Perforated backing has small holes that allow water to pass through at a controlled rate, typically stated in gallons per hour per square foot. Fully permeable backing allows water to drain freely without restriction. The choice depends on the application and the base underneath. A turf with perforated backing can work well over a compacted, free-draining base, because the base does the heavy lifting. Fully permeable backing is often chosen for pet areas, play spaces, and sites where heavy water load is expected, because it does not slow drainage at all. In Chandler, monsoon downpours and the occasional backed-up irrigation line mean pet areas and play zones especially benefit from fast drainage.
However, even fast-draining turf will fail if the base underneath does not drain. Water will pool on top of a compacted, poorly sloped base or on concrete, and it will sit there, creating odor, promoting algae growth, and eventually deteriorating the turf backing. For hard surfaces like patios, balconies, or pool decks, an underlay or drainage pad is essential. These pads have channels or perforations that move water to the edges and away from the turf. When you ask an installer about drainage, do not just ask about the turf's drainage rate; ask how water will exit the system and where it will go. The answer should include the base material, the slope, and, if applicable, the underlay or edge drainage method. If the answer is vague, you are not talking to someone who understands the job.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The details that finish an installation reveal whether an installer understands the craft. Seams should be joined with seam tape and adhesive, with the grain (pile direction) of both pieces aligned so the seam is nearly invisible. Seams that are visible, raised, or peeling are signs of poor technique or inadequate adhesive. Nails or staples should be spaced correctly (typically six to eight inches apart along the perimeter) and driven so the head sits flush with the backing without tearing the material. Edges should be clean and secured: bender board nailed or screwed around the perimeter keeps the turf from lifting and creates a finished look, or the turf can be cut tight to pavers, cool deck, or pool coping with the edge sealed or secured so it does not fray or move.
Power brooming is the final step. After the turf is laid and infill is spread, a power broom stands the fibres upright and distributes the infill evenly across the surface. This step makes the turf look full and natural and ensures the infill is not clumped in one area. A yard that is not power broomed will look thin and uneven, and the infill will migrate over time. If you walk on newly installed turf and the fibres are matted down or the infill is piled in some spots and bare in others, that is a sign the power brooming was skipped or rushed. These finishing details matter because they affect how the turf looks, feels, and drains for years to come.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, you should receive a written specification that details every material and method planned for your installation. This spec is your protection and your reference if questions arise later. It should include the turf product name and fiber type (polyethylene, polypropylene, or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type and its drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and pounds per square foot, the base material and depth (typically three to four inches in Chandler), the base compaction method, whether a weed barrier will be used, the seam method and adhesive type, the edging method, and the workmanship warranty period (typically one to three years on the installation only). The spec should also state what is included in cleanup and haul-off, so there are no surprises when the job is done.
A written spec is also your tool for comparing quotes from different installers. Two companies quoting the same price may be planning very different systems: one might spec 2.5 pounds of infill per square foot and four inches of compacted base, while another plans 1.5 pounds and two inches of loose base. The written spec makes those differences visible. If an installer resists providing a spec in writing or says "we'll handle it as we go," that is a signal to look elsewhere. We provide a written spec for every job, measured on site and tailored to your yard. For a free estimate, contact us with photos and a description of your project, and we will visit to measure and discuss the right system for your needs. You can also review our pricing to understand how different systems are valued.